VISITING

Visiting the Valles Caldera and the Jemez Mountains:

-How to Get to the Valles Caldera
-Current Valles Caldera National Preserve Recreation Opportunities
-Recreation Opportunities in the Valles Caldera (Within the Santa Fe National Forest)
-Camping
-Lodging
-Restaurants
-Other Jemez Mountain Attractions
-Official Regional Tourism Web Sites

Please note for the sake of safety that cell phone service does not exist in most parts of the Jemez Mountains and Valles Caldera. One exception to this is on portions of the Valle Grande.

Speed trap warning: The entire length of N.M. Hwy 4 (the “Jemez Mountain Trail”) is a notorious speed trap, particularly in Jemez Springs, where you must not drive faster than 25 MPH. Don’t say we didn’t warn you!

Read the following travel articles about the Valles Caldera and Jemez Mountains from the national press:

In New Mexico, Balm in a Volcanic Landscape. New York Times, Oct. 26, 2008.
Jemez, New Mexico: The Southwest’s Little Secret. Los Angeles Times, June 27, 2007.
In Valles Caldera’s Wild Heart. Los Angeles Times, Oct. 12, 2003.
Sink Into Jemez Springs. Sunset Magazine, 2008.
31 Places to Go This Summer. New York Times, June 1, 2008. [See #29]

How to Get to the Valles Caldera

The Valles Caldera is in the Jemez Mountains of Northern New Mexico. Here is a map of the region to get you oriented.

Directions to the entrance of the Valles Caldera National Preserve can be found here.

The entrance to the Valles Caldera National Preserve is on NM State Highway 4 at mile marker 39.2 in the Jemez Mountains, on the north side of the road.

Note the drive times to the Valles Caldera National Preserve main entrance from the following locations:

La Cueva: 15 minutes
Los Alamos: 30 minutes
Jemez Springs: 35 minutes
Santa Fe: One hour and ten minutes
Albuquerque: One hour and 45 minutes
Las Cruces: Five hours
Denver: Seven hours
Phoenix: 8.5 hours
Oklahoma City: Nine hours and ten minutes
Dallas: 12 hours

The nearest major airport is the Albuquerque International Sunport. It takes about one hour and 45 minutes to get to the Valles Caldera from there.

Current Valles Caldera National Preserve Recreation Options

Free Hikes

The Valles Caldera National Preserve offers two free hikes year round – these can be hiked without reservation and without checking in with the Preserve.

	Valle Grande Trail – a gentle two-mile round-trip hike from the East Rim of the Caldera down into the Valle Grande. The trailhead is located on Hwy. 4 near mile marker 43.
	Coyote Call Trail- a more strenuous three-mile hike up a forested slope on the South Rim of the Caldera that affords stunning vistas of the Valle Grande, Redondo Peak, as well as several ring fracture domes. The trailhead is located on Hwy. 4 near mile marker 41.

During the summer, the public can drive the scenic two-mile unpaved road that leads from Hwy 4 (mile 39.2) to the middle of the Valle Grande seven days a week. Here visitors can visit the Valle Grande Staging Area and can ask questions from staff regarding history, geology and recreation activities on the Preserve, and can also visit the Preserve’s gift shop.

Winter Recreation Activities

Winter recreation activities include daytime cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, as well as full-moon and new-moon nighttime skiing. Routes tend to include a circumnavigation of La Jara Peak as well as a trail to the film set of “The Missing.” Check out the calendar section of the Valles Caldera National Preserve web site for more information.

Summer Fee Activities With No Reservation Required

In the summer, the public can hike the La Jara Trail for $5 seven days a week without reservation. This 1.5 mile loop circumnavigates Cerro la Jara, a volcanic ring fracture dome that was formed 500,000 years ago. Check in with the Valle Grande Staging Area first.

One-hour van tours of the Preserve are also offered in the summer each day of the week except Tuesdays and Wednesdays, at 10:00 AM, noon, 2:00 PM, and 4:00 PM without reservation. The tours, which cost $5, will inform about the geology and the ranch history of the Caldera, and will also take you to some ranch headquarters buildings, movie sets, and an old-growth forest.

In the summer of 2008, the Preserve also opened the East Fork of the Jemez River to fishing for the first time. This activity is first-come, first-serve (although it is advisable to make a reservation on the official web site in case demand exceeds capacity). East Fork fishing costs $50, and gives anglers from 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM to fish, in which the entire length of the Valle Grande – up to the headwaters of the East Fork – can be walked.

Fee Activities Requiring Reservations

Information about other recreation activities on the Preserve, including fishing, special hikes, special van tours, mountain biking, equestrian, stargazing and hunting, can be found on the Preserve’s official web site in the Reservations section, as well as in the Calendar section. Some of the most popular tours offered by the Preserve are wildlife tours, geology tours, botany tours, and mushroom tours.

Contact the Valles Caldera National Preserve with more questions at (505) 662-3333.

Recreation Opportunities in the Valles Caldera (Within the Santa Fe National Forest)

Substantial recreation opportunities exist in the portion of the Valles Caldera managed by the Santa Fe National Forest, including fishing, rock climbing, hiking, bicycling. picnicking, and hot springs. Specifically, these include:

	Jemez Falls – This one-mile round-trip hike to a gorgeous 50-foot-high waterfall is popular with families, since this easy and mostly flat trail can be hiked by people of all ages.
	The East Fork of the Jemez Wild and Scenic River (Trail 137), section 1: From Battleship Rock to Jemez Falls (including McCauley Warm Springs)
	The East Fork of the Jemez Wild and Scenic River (Trail 137), section 2: From near Jemez Falls to Las Conchas (including the East Fork Box, a stunning slot canyon carved by the river through 500,000 year-old South Mountain rhyolite rock). The entire length of the East Fork can be fished, and Trail 137 is a great mountain biking trail. Las Conchas features cliffs upon which many people rock climb.
	Las Conchas Los Conchas is an area in which the East Fork of the Jemez River crosses Hwy. 4 twice within one half mile, between mile markers 36 and 37, just a few miles to the west of the entrance to the Valles Caldera National Preserve. The easternmost river crossing is marked as “Las Conchas Fishing Access.” From here, one can fish (or hike) the East Fork of the Jemez River upstream to the northeast all the way to the boundary of the Valles Caldera National Preserve. The westernmost crossing is marked as “Las Conchas Trailhead.” This is an access point to Trail 137 (mentioned above). A scene from the 2007 movie “Wild Hogs” was also filmed at this spot. It is also a well-known rock-climbing spot, with climbs of up to 60 feet in height (additional rock-climbing information for Las Conchas can be found here). The Mountain Project rock-climbing web site has a useful summary of the rock climbing available here. Read their description of the filming of “Wild Hogs.” Click the image below to view a full size photo and diagram of the climbing routes on the main Las Conchas climbing wall, the “Cattle Call Wall,” produced by Los Alamos resident Jason Halladay:
	San Antonio Hot Springs
	Spence Hot Springs
	Battleship Rock, a towering volcanic structure formed by the El Cajete Eruption of 50,000-60,000 years ago. It was carved by the confluence of the two major drainage systems of the Caldera (the East Fork of the Jemez River and the San Antonio River), which occurs at the tip of Battleship Rock. This is a great area to have a picnic. View a 360° panorama from the top of Battleship Rock.
	Soda Dam – While not a part of the Valles Caldera, this massive geologic structure is an essential part of the story of the volcanism of the Jemez Mountains. Heated by rock in contact with the magma chamber that still resides only a few miles beneath the surface here in the Jemez, superheated water penetrates to the surface of the earth at this point, and leaves behind deposits of calcium carbonate (also known as travertine), which, over the millenia, have formed a massive dam across the Jemez River.

Cross Town Mountain Biking Trail – (By Albuquerque outdoorsman Leif Smith) — Embedded in the Jemez Mountains are several easily accessible mountain biking trails. The closest to the Valles Caldera, a trail named Cross Town, is located on Upper St. Peter’s Dome Road (FR 289). It’s a single track that is medium difficulty. There are rolling hills and rocky slopes. The elevation change is minimal compared to anything found near ski hills, but it’s fun nonetheless. The easiest way to access Cross Towns is from Hwy. 4. From Los Alamos, turn left on Upper St. Peter’s Dome Road (FR 289) and continue for two miles. Look for a horse corral on the right side of the road. The horse corral is located just past the intersection of FR 289 and Sawyer Mesa Road. Park next to the horse corral on the West side. The trail head is located on the southeast side of the clearing.
The first 1/4 mile of the trail is double track. After riding for a few minutes, the double track turns into a road and abruptly leads to a gravel clearing. On the right, there is a road that leads uphill. Take this road for 80 yards and make a left onto the single track that’s slightly cut into the hill. From this point forward there are several intersections where the single track crosses (or follows) a road for a short while. The trail ends on FR 36, three miles past the parking area near the horse corral. Turn right to go back to your car or turn around and ride the trail back. The trail is 12 miles long and follows the rim of Cochiti Canyon. The elevation is about 8,700 feet. It features a good, fast ride in pumice with some rocky technical areas and a few short steeps. Sometimes the pumice and dirt surface can be loose and fallen trees will be on the path, but for the most part it’s a quick ride filled with fun, rolling hills.
Dark Canyon Fishing Access
Rincon Fishing Access

To learn about more recreation opportunities in the Jemez Mountains, visit the Santa Fe National Forest’s Jemez Ranger District recreation web site.

Although soaking in the hot springs and cliff jumping are popular Jemez pastimes, there are some dangers associated with these activities that visitors should be aware of. Read this 1997 article from the Albuquerque Journal, entitled “Pools of Peril,” to learn about some hazards of these pursuits.

Camping

Currently there is no camping allowed on the Valles Caldera National Preserve. However, within the Caldera (but outside the Preserve boundary), there are nearby camping facilities at:

Redondo Campground, two miles east of La Cueva on State Highway 4

Jemez Falls Campground, six miles east of La Cueva on State Highway 4

San Antonio Campground, two miles north of La Cueva on Highway 126

Lodging in the Jemez Mountains

La Cueva

Elk Mountain Lodge – This lodge has five luxury rooms. A very classy romantic hideaway. 37485 Highway 126, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-3159 or (800) 815-2859

La Cueva Lodge – Offers 15 modern rooms on the San Antonio River. The lodge offers senior citizen, commercial and winter rates. 38690 Highway 126, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-3814 or (877) 838-3830

Trail’s End RV Park – Located 1 mile west of Hwy 4 on Hwy 126 in La Cueva, Trail’s End offers 14 sites in a forested setting with full hookups. 37695 Highway 126, Jemez Springs, NM 87025 (575) 829-4072

Jemez Springs

Sweetwater Herb and Teaching Center – Hostel-style bunk beds and camping, with communal dining area for minimal cost (bunks from $20/person; camping from $15/tent). 186 Cercado, Jemez Pueblo, NM 87024. (575) 834-7908

Dancing Bear Bed and Breakfast – Charming river retreat in Jemez Springs. It has four guest rooms, each with a private bath, TV and VCR. 314 San Diego Dr. Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-3336 or (800) 422-3271

Desert Willow Bed and Breakfast – On the banks of the Jemez River with beautifully groomed grounds featuring a sculptured garden. The Desert Willow has two rooms and the Dragonfly Cottage next door. 15975 Highway 4, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-3410

Cañon del Rio – Guests can leisurely stroll the winding paths to the Jemez River, sit down a spell and enjoy the fresh air. The Cañon del Rio has six air-conditioned rooms, each with private baths. An apartment with equipped kitchen, living room, bedroom and bathroom w/Jacuzzi is available. 16445 Highway 4, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-4377

Casa Blanca – Fish in your own backyard. Adobe home with vigas and kiva fireplace. Complete kitchen (pots & linens), and sunny master bedroom with queen bed. Riverfront terraced yard, private retreat house. 17521 Highway 4, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-3579

The Laughing Lizard Cafe & Inn – Four individually decorated, comfortable rooms with private bath and shower. Next door enjoy homemade meals at the Laughing Lizard Cafe. 17526 Highway 4, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-3108

Jemez Canyon Inn – Rustic but clean five rooms are available at affordable rates, courtyard with BBQ. Billy and Don are friendly hosts. 50 Canyon Ct., Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-3254

The Jemez Mountain Inn – Located in the heart of Jemez Springs. 17555 Highway 4, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (888) 819-1075

Restaurants

La Cueva

Ridgeback Restaurant – A down-home country kitchen located at the Valles Caldera’s west rim — it’s the only restaurant in the Caldera. It also offers free wifi. The restaurant is a 15-minute drive west of the main entrance to the Valles Caldera National Preserve. At the intersection of Hwy 4 and Hwy 126. 38690 Highway 126, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-3322.

Amanda’s Jemez Mountain Country Store is a friendly, family-run general store in La Cueva where you can pick up groceries, snacks, bait & tackle, fishing licenses, and camping supplies. It also has an ATM. Next door to the Ridgeback Restaurant, at the intersection of Hwy 4 and Hwy 126. 38690 Highway 126, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-4333.

Jemez Springs

Los Ojos Restaurant and Saloon – This legendary wild-west establishment, established in 1947 and known simply as “the bar” to locals, was recently named by Esquire Magazine as one of the best bars in the United States. The ambiance and atmosphere are classic and unforgettable (look for the dozens of bullet holes in the ceiling), and it features a good mix of locals and travelers. This bar/New Mexican restaurant is an integral part of the fabric of the Jemez community, and it’s also a fantastic musical venue, with rock and country bands playing on its cozy stage usually at least once a week. Click here to watch Brooks and Dunn play “My Next Broken Heart” at Los Ojos. Wifi available. Open Sat.-Sun. at 8 AM, and Mon.-Fri. at 11 AM. Closing times can vary from 9:30 PM to 1:30 AM, but the kitchen usually closes at 8 PM. 17596 Highway 4, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-3547.

Laughing Lizard – A fine dining establishment in Jemez Springs, featuring some great vegetarian dishes, traditional to tofu, desserts, and espresso, in the historic adobe Laughing Lizard Cafe. Daily specials. Great place to mingle with friends and listen to live music. 17526 Highway 4, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-3547

Jemez Stage Stop – This well-established mercantile-restaurant-music venue has recently changed ownership (it used be “Deb’s Deli”). The staff at the Jemez Stage Stop is committed to bringing the finest home-cooked cuisine, listening-room quality musicians as well as expertise in the area’s fly fishing and rich historic references. Open 8 AM – 5 PM (closed Tuesday). Across the street from Los Ojos. 17607 Highway 4, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-4655

Highway 4 Coffee Shop – Coffee and pastries in Jemez Springs, with wifi. Open in the morning through early afternoon. 17502 Highway 4, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-4655

Los Alamos

Chili Works – A wonderful little shack that features the best breakfast burritos in Northern New Mexico (and some fine lunch food as well). Closed on Sundays and Mondays. Closed daily at 1:30 PM. 1743 Trinity Dr., Los Alamos, NM 87544. (505) 662-7591

El Parasol – Authentic and tasty New Mexican food to go. 1903 Central Ave. Los Alamos, NM 87544. (505) 661-0303

De Colores – A sit-down New Mexican food restaurant and bar. 2470 East Rd. Los Alamos, NM 87544. (505) 662-6285

Other Jemez Mountains Attractions

Jemez Springs Bath House – This historic bath house in Jemez Springs is over 100 years old and is heated by the magma chamber of the Valles Caldera. On the town plaza in Jemez Springs. 62 Highway 4, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-3303

Giggling Springs Natural Hot Mineral Water Outdoor Soaking Pool – Hot springs pool located along the Jemez River in Jemez Springs. The property is the site of the oldest bath house in the area, which was built sometime in the mid to late 1800′s. 40 Abousleman Loop, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-9175

Bodhi Mandala Zen Center – A Rinzai Zen practice center in Jemez Springs. The center was founded in 1973 by Kyozan Joshu Roshi, a Japanese Zen Master in the Rinzai lineage, with the fundamental purpose of providing teaching in Zen Buddhism to all who wish to learn and practice. Bodhi Manda Zen Center offers formal daily practice which includes activities such as samu (work practice), banka (chanting practice), and zazen (sitting meditation). In the spring and fall, the Center becomes a place of intensive monastic training under the guidance of Kyozan Joshu Roshi. The Bodhi also has spectacular hot springs along the Jemez River in which members of the public can soak for $10 apiece. 13 Bodhi Dr, Jemez Springs, NM 87025. (575) 829-3854

Pajarito Mountain Ski Area – New Mexico’s best-kept ski secret. World class skiing along on the East Rim of the Valles Caldera with relatively short lift lines and small crowds. Check out a view of Pajarito Mountain from the sky. 397 Camp May Road, Los Alamos, NM 87544 (505) 662-5725

Aspen Ridge Alpacas of Northern New Mexico – Mickey and Evelyn operate a small alpaca farm in La Cueva, a Jemez Mountains community 15 minutes from the entrance to the Valles Caldera National Preserve. An alpaca is a domesticated species of high-altitude South American camelid, resembling a llama, and usually bred for its soft fur that is often used to make knitted and woven items. You are welcome to visit their alpaca farm to admire and touch these creatures, free of charge. Just call ahead of time at (575) 829-3312.

Raymond Sandoval, Sculptor – Fifth-generation Jemez Mountains local Raymond Sandoval’s work has won awards from coast to coast, but his most famous sculpture is the colossal bronze of historic Native American figure Tamenend in Philadelphia, PA, located at Penn’s Landing on the Delaware River. You can order a strong one from Mr. Sandoval on many nights of the week when he serves as bartender at Los Ojos.